| Home
> Ask the Engineer
> Facade Cleaning
Facade Cleaning
By Stephen
Varone, AIA and Peter Varsalona, PE
Our Upper West Side
cooperative is a 13-story pre-war brick building with appealing historic
features, including sandstone window trim, a copper cornice, and terra
cotta moldings. Although the building is in reasonably good condition,
years of city soot and grime have given the exterior a dingy appearance.
The board would like to undertake a facade cleaning program, but we’re
worried about damaging the decorative elements that give the building its
architectural character. What cleaning methods are strong enough to remove
dirt and stains while safe enough to protect the delicate parts of the
building? Can we used the same treatments throughout the facade, or is
brick cleaned differently than stone and other parts of the exterior?
You’re right to be concerned about selecting the
proper methods for cleaning your building because the wrong treatments can
scar the building and permanently harm its finer historical elements.
Different types of masonry call for different types of applications, but
even the right cleaning method can cause damage if incorrectly applied.
Similarly, different types of grime, such as soot and smoke, require
different cleaning agents than say, oil or metallic stains. As a rule of
thumb, the gentlest treatment should be used whenever possible, and whenever
stronger methods are called for they must be used carefully. |
Cleaning with Water
There are three kinds of water-based methods for cleaning facades: pressure
washing, soaking, and steam/hot pressurized washing. Properly applied,
water-based treatments are the least invasive types of facade cleaning and a
conservative way to start the job, especially when dealing with typical dirt
and grime.
The most common water-based method by far is pressure washing, in which a
low- to medium-pressure spray (100 to 400 psi) is applied to the surface of
the building. (As a point of reference, the spray from a garden hose is
approximately 60 psi.) The water pressure usually starts out low and is
increased as needed, followed by a scrubbing with a natural or synthetic
(but not metal) bristle brush for stubborn areas and detailed elements.Sometimes a non-ionic detergent made from synthetic
organic compounds is added to the water to remove oil-based dirt from
surfaces. Soap and other household detergents should not be used in
water-based cleaning because they can leave a visible residue on masonry.
Soaking involves spraying or misting the masonry surface for an extended
period of time, usually up to several days at a time, to loosen heavy
accumulations of soot and crusts, particularly in parts of the building not
exposed to rain. Soaking, used in conjunction with water pressure and
followed by a final water rinse, requires repeated applications that can
take up to several weeks. But because it’s a mild method, it’s ideal for
historic masonry.
The third method, steam or hot-pressurized cleaning, is not commonly used,
but it can be effective for removing built-up soil deposits and plants, such
as ivy. It’s also an option for cleaning stone that’s sensitive to the acids
used in some chemical cleaners.
Chemical Agents
Chemical cleaners are effective for removing dirt, and unlike water-based
treatments, they can also be used to remove paint, coatings, metallic
stains, and graffiti. Acid-base cleaners are effective on unglazed brick and
terra cotta, cast stone, concrete, granite, and most sandstones. Alkaline
cleaners are best used on acid-sensitive masonry, such as limestone, marble,
polished granite, and calcareous (chalky) sandstone.
Both types of chemical cleaners are sprayed or brushed on a wet surface and
allowed to sit for a period of time, which varies depending on the
particular cleaner, typically longer for alkalines than acidic cleaners.
Depending on the substance being removed, several applications of the
cleaner may be necessary. Both types are rinsed off with water; alkalines
are given a slightly acidic wash first to neutralize them.
Cleaning Preparation
Before beginning a facade cleaning program, it’s important to identify the
types of masonry on the building and select the most appropriate cleaning
method for each type. Distinguishing between different types of stone is
especially crucial. Certain limestones, for example, can look like
sandstone, and what looks like natural stone could be cast stone or
concrete. In addition, some bricks may contain impurities such as iron
particles that can react with certain cleaning agents, resulting in
staining. Choosing the wrong type of cleaning method can cause irreversible
damage to the building materials, so when in doubt, it’s best to consult
with a historic preservationist about the composition of the masonry.
Also, be aware that some chemicals (and even water) that are safe for
masonry can corrode or damage other building elements, such as decorative
metal elements, glass, wooden window sashes, iron window bars, and window
air conditioner sleeves. Any parts of the building not subject to cleaning
but susceptible to damage should be covered or otherwise protected.
If your building is planning major exterior repairs, the board should
consider waiting until that work is completed before cleaning the facade.
Water from sprays and hoses can enter the building through cracked or
missing bricks and deteriorated mortar joints, eventually rusting lintel
steel and metal supports. If the building is in mostly good condition,
however, water washing the facade could help expose hairline cracks and
other small defects as well as remove loose mortar from joints, facilitating
the repointing work.
It’s best to schedule your building’s facade cleaning so that it takes place
during the warm weather. Water-based cleaning should not be done in
temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit because water trapped in cracks and
joints could subsequently freeze, leading to spalling and further cracking.
Chemical cleaning agents also work better in temperatures 50 degrees or
warmer. A masonry wall can take a week or longer to dry, so it’s best to
plan the cleaning when a cold spell isn’t likely to settle in soon after the
application.
Testing Sample Patches
Before launching a full-scale cleaning of the facades, it’s strongly
recommended that the cleaning method be tested first on an out-of-the-way
part of the building. Start with a small section, approximately less than a
square foot, trying the mildest treatment first and testing progressively
stronger methods as needed.
Many chemical agents come in different strengths, and they can be diluted
until the right mixture is found. The amount of time a chemical cleaner is
left on the surface can also be adjusted, depending on the severity of the
dirt or stain. Caution should be used when testing with chemical agents,
however. Leaving certain hydrochloric-based agents on masonry too long, for
example, or not adequately rinsing them from the surface, can leave a hazy
whitish residue. The cleaning contractor should follow the manufacturer’s
guidelines in all cases and contact the product’s technical representative
with any questions.
Because your building has different kinds of masonry, a sample patch should
be conducted on each type. Water-based treatments shouldn’t automatically be
dismissed on particularly grimy or stain-ridden areas: Water can help loosen
dirt and grit, enabling a milder chemical cleaner to be used than without
would otherwise be the case.
In a misguided attempt for a quick, thorough facade cleaning, some
contractors blast the water at a very high pressure or increase the
concentration of chemical cleaner beyond what is recommended. Using too
strong a stream or too strong a cleaning agent can be abrasive and easily
etch glass, marble, sandstone and other soft stones, and certain types of
bricks. Holding the nozzle of the spray applicator too close to the surface
can also damage the masonry and strip away delicate decorative elements. If
grains of stone or sand are found in the runoff cleaning water, that’s a
sign the water pressure is too high or the nozzle is being held too close.
Given your building’s age, a uniformly pristine look may not be
attainable—or desirable. Different areas of the facade have very likely been
repaired or replaced at different times, so it may not be possible to
achieve the same degree of luster on all types of masonry. For example,
paint may have been used to protect soft brick or hide defects, so stripping
it throughout the building may not produce the best visual effect. Or some
crusts may have become so embedded within stone surfaces that it may be
impossible to remove them without also removing part of the stone.
Keep in mind that if your building is in a designated historic district, the
board will need to obtain prior approval from the New York City Landmarks
Preservation Commission, which will want to make sure that the planned
cleaning methods and agents will not damage the masonry.
By carefully analyzing the building’s exterior elements and the special
treatment needs of each, a safe and effective cleaning program can refresh
the look of your building while preserving its historical character.
Stephen Varone, AIA is president and
Peter Varsalona, PE principal of RAND Engineering & Architecture,
PC. This column was originally published in the
December 2006 issue of Habitat Magazine.
More Ask the Engineer
articles |